Start With the Weather and How You Live

British weather is the single biggest factor in how a gate ages. Wind-driven rain, damp winters, frost, summer sun and, on the coast, salt spray all take their toll. Before you compare price tags, think honestly about your situation: is the gate exposed to the prevailing south-westerlies, or tucked behind a hedge? Do you want to spend a Saturday each spring oiling timber, or would you rather forget it exists until the hinges squeak? Answer those two questions and the shortlist almost writes itself. Broadly, timber rewards care with character, aluminium rewards neglect with indifference, and steel rewards investment with longevity.

Timber Gates: The Classic British Choice

Timber remains the default for good reason: it is repairable, warm-looking and suits everything from a Cotswold cottage to a modern townhouse. The key is choosing the right species and treating it properly.

• Pressure-treated softwood — the budget-friendly workhorse. Treated to resist rot, it will give you ten to fifteen years if you re-treat it every year or two. Ideal for painted gates.
• Cedar and larch — naturally durable and beautifully weather-resistant, ageing to a soft silver-grey. No annual staining needed, though a coat of oil keeps the colour.
• Oak — heavy, handsome and long-lasting, but expensive and prone to movement as it dries. Needs sturdy posts and a willingness to let it settle.
• Accoya — modified timber with outstanding stability and rot resistance, often guaranteed for decades.

Whatever you choose, seal the end grain, leave a gap of 25–50mm beneath the gate, and use metalwork that lets water drain away rather than pool in the joints.

Aluminium Gates: The Low-Maintenance Modern Option

Aluminium has quietly become the smart choice for anyone who wants the look of a traditional gate without the upkeep. Modern powder-coated aluminium can be finished in a convincing woodgrain effect, or in any RAL colour to match your front door.

It will not rot, warp, split or rust, and it shrugs off the coastal salt air that eats into other materials. A wipe with soapy water once a year is the sum total of its maintenance. It is also much lighter than steel, which matters if you are hanging a wide gate or a pair of driveway gates on existing posts — you may not need to dig them out and replace them.

The trade-offs are cost (usually more than softwood, less than quality hardwood) and the fact that a deep scratch can be hard to disguise. Cheaper, thinner sections can also feel tinny, so ask about wall thickness and the quality of the coating before you commit.

Steel Gates: Security and Serious Longevity

Steel is the security option. A steel frame with steel infill is difficult to force, which is why it is a common sight on side returns and alleyways. Galvanised and then powder-coated, it will last for decades with almost no attention.

Two things matter. First, weight: a steel gate can easily weigh 40–60kg, so it needs substantial posts set in concrete, plus heavy-duty adjustable hinges. Second, coating integrity. Once rust gets under a chipped coating it spreads quickly. Keep a tin of metal paint handy and touch up chips as soon as you notice them — a five-minute job that adds years to the gate's life.

Bare steel, however well painted, will eventually rust through a British winter, especially near the sea. Always specify galvanising as the base layer.

Matching Your Gate to Your Fence and Home

A gate that matches nothing looks like an afterthought. Think of the gate, fence and any adjacent trellis or railing as one composition.

• Style: close-boarded timber fencing pairs naturally with a matching timber gate; a low picket or slatted fence carries an aluminium gate beautifully.
• Colour: match the gate to the fence rather than the front door — though a gate and door in the same shade looks deliberate and smart.
• Height and line: the top rail should run level with the fence panels. A gate sitting 100mm out of step is surprisingly obvious.
• Proportion: single gates work up to about a metre wide; beyond that, a pair of gates is easier to swing and far less likely to sag.

Also weigh up privacy against light. Solid infill blocks the view; slatted or open designs let light through and reduce wind load on a tall gate.

Measure Twice, Check Permissions, Buy Good Ironmongery

Measure the opening at the top, middle and bottom — old posts are rarely parallel. Take the smallest figure and allow 10–20mm clearance each side for hinges and latches, plus 25–50mm ground clearance so the gate never drags on wet gravel. Hanging posts should be at least 100 x 100mm for a typical garden gate and set around 600mm into the ground in concrete.

Check permissions before you buy. In England and Wales, gates and fences over 2m (or 1m where they front a highway) generally need planning permission, and conservation areas or listed buildings may impose further restrictions.

Finally, budget properly for the fixings. Good stainless steel hinges, a decent latch and a drop bolt will outlast three cheap sets, and they are the difference between a gate that swings sweetly for twenty years and one that scrapes and sags within two.