Start With How the Gate Will Be Used

Before you buy anything, think about who needs to get through the gate and who does not. A side gate onto a quiet footpath makes different demands from a gate at the end of a drive, or one that mostly exists to keep a determined spaniel out of the front garden. Ask three questions: does the latch need to work from both sides, does it need to lock with a key or code, and does anyone in the household — a child, an older relative, someone carrying shopping — need to open it one-handed?

Answer those honestly and the choice narrows quickly. A simple Suffolk or Norfolk latch, lovely as it looks on a cottage-style gate, is a poor fit if you need to stop a toddler reaching a pond. Conversely, a heavy lockable padbolt on a lightweight picket gate can pull the frame out of shape within a season.

Match the Latch to Your Gate and Post

Gate hardware fails for boring reasons: the latch does not sit flat, the post flexes, or the striker lands on a knot. Measure before you buy.

• Gate thickness and frame depth. Most slide bolts and padbolts need a flat face at least 40–50mm deep. Slim, slatted gates usually suit a surface-mounted magnetic or gravity latch instead.
• Post type. Timber posts take screws well but move with the seasons. Metal posts suit clamp-on latches and rarely shift.
• Opening direction. Some latches are handed and only work on a left- or right-hinged gate. Check before ordering.
• Gap between gate and post. A wide gap needs a longer throw or an adjustable striker; a tight gap may need a recessed keep.

If your gate already sags, fix the hinges and post first — no latch holds reliably on a gate that drops 15mm as it swings.

Weather Resistance Matters More Than You Think

British weather is relentless on hardware: wet winters, hard frosts and salt-laden air on the coast. Choose materials that cope.

• Stainless steel (grade 304, or 316 near the sea) is the safest all-round choice. It will not rust through or stain timber.
• Galvanised or hot-dip galvanised steel is strong and affordable, especially for padbolts.
• Powder-coated finishes look smart in black or anthracite but chip, and rust creeps in once they do. Touch up scratches promptly.
• Brass and chrome can pit or dezincify outdoors. Fine on a sheltered porch, less good on an exposed gate.
• Zinc-plated screws are a false economy. Use stainless steel fixings, ideally the same grade as the latch.

Avoid mixing dissimilar metals where water sits — the join becomes a little battery and corrodes faster.

Child Safety, Pets and Access

If children or dogs are the reason for the gate, height and reach matter more than brute strength.

• Fit a second latch high up. A bolt at about 1.5m is beyond most under-fives but still easy for an adult.
• Choose a self-closing latch with a spring or gravity action, so the gate cannot be left swinging open.
• Keep fingers out of pinch points. Roller catches and magnetic latches have fewer traps than heavy iron latches with exposed mechanisms.
• Check gaps for small pets. A latch that holds the gate loosely can leave a 60mm gap at the bottom — plenty for a cat or a terrier.
• For visitors, a keyed or combination latch on the outside face, with a simple thumb-turn inside, avoids the awkward reach-over.

Test the finished job from a child's height. A latch that looks secure to you may be an easy stretch for a curious seven-year-old.

Fitting It Properly

Good fitting is half the job. Pilot-drill every screw hole, especially in hardwood such as oak, and keep fixings clear of the very edge of the stile. Pack the latch body so it sits flat rather than bridging a chamfer — a small shim of hardwood or plastic is fine.

Set the striker so the latch engages with a positive click but does not fight the gate. Aim for 2–3mm of engagement, no more. If the latch needs a shove, the gate will loosen over time; if it barely catches, wind will rattle it open.

Finally, check that the gate cannot be lifted off its hinges from outside. On outward-opening gates, hinge bolts or a locking hinge pin are cheap insurance.

A Simple Yearly Routine

Ten minutes each spring will double the life of your hardware.

• Wipe the latch clean and clear grit from the mechanism.
• Lubricate with a dry PTFE or silicone spray, not oil, which gathers dirt into a paste.
• Tighten screws and re-set the striker if the gate has dropped.
• Sand and refinish bare patches on timber, and treat the top of the post, where rot starts.
• Test the latch from both sides, and lock it at night if it guards a side entrance.

Do that and a decent latch will comfortably outlast the gate it is fitted to.